|Shannon has called many times in the three
months since the 11th Report in March, and the good news is that her
health has been fine. The rest has been a series of ups and
When she is in Ndioum at the Regional Peace Corps
Center she usually sounds upbeat and happy. There she is with other PCVs
(all Americans, of course), the language is English, the food is
familiar, they have electricity, running water including a toilet that
flushes, and an actual refrigerator. In Ndioum life is
Back in Seno Palel village life presents some
real challenges. This is indeed a difficult time of
. . . what a coincidence. . . just as I was typing
that last sentence the phone rang, and it was Shannon requesting that we
cancel her credit card because her wallet had been stolen.
She was on a crowded bus with her backpack stowed
safely under her seat, and when she arrived at her destination her wallet
and sunglasses were gone. When I commented that if it was a
crowded bus, then the thief obviously had many witnesses watching and
allowing him to do the deed, and Shannon wasn't surprised about
that. On another frequently traveled bus trip the driver told her
the fare was 450 francs when she knew it was 350 francs, and others on the bus
chimed in and agreed that it was 450 francs. . . just for her, apparently.
In addition to sunglasses, various cards, and
contact information, she also lost $80(US), over a month's salary, an
unusually large amount to be carrying. While she will get reimbursed
for that amount by the Peace Corps when she files a police report, she was sad
to have rewarded the thief so well and inspire even more
I'd better tell something positive
One of the best incidents we've heard from
Shannon so far was her story about saving a little one-year-old boy's life by
doing the Heimlich maneuver on him. When she saw him choking she
turned him over and rapped on his back as she'd been trained, and the food
flew out. As she was doing it the people around her laughed to see
her beating a choking child. But afterwards, when they realized what
had just happened, Shannon taught them all to do the Heimlich. So
little fellow named Abu is alive today because of Shannon.
That's the only hero story so far.
Most of the phone calls from Shannon include some
comment on how she is progressing with Pulaar. Occasionally she is
pleased with how it is coming, but usually she is complaining about how
difficult it is and how slowly she is learning. Success in her
role in the village depends on being able to communicate, so it is
terribly important. She can now answer direct questions and convey
basic information, but she can't really carry on a conversation. She
is looking forward to being able to say whatever she wants to, not just
what she needs to.
To back up a bit, in late March when Shannon returned
to the village after being gone so long with her sickness, she called from
Sinthiou-Bamambe and was almost elated. It was going far better than
she had anticipated, her Pulaar was improving, a package had arrived, and
life was good. She concluded that she must have just needed a vacation.
When she called just five days later it was a
different story. She was calling from Ndioum, usually a happy place
full of American things, but she had just endured an eight-hour bus
ride. It was exceedingly crowded, smelly, and dusty; the excrement
from the chickens and goats on the roof regularly filtered down onto the
passengers, and it was unbearably hot, easily 110 degrees. Just an
ordinary ride on public transportation.
She was homesick, a rare
feeling for Shannon, something she doesn't feel when she is in her
village, Seno Palel, because
it is so different from home
...like Mars. But the very worst part of living in Senegal,
she said, is forever being screamed at. They scream
"toubab" (white person) at her incessantly, both children and
adults (mostly little boys), even in her village. She hates that
Shannon says she will never again complain about celebrities'
rudeness to their fans.
In Ndioum with her fellow PCVs she was discouraged
to learn how well the others were doing with Pulaar, and most had even
started their work. She was realizing the price of being away from
the village so long with her illness, and it was frustrating to be so far
The next phone call from Shannon was equally down. Her Pulaar
was horrible, malnourishment from eating only rice was making her moody, and
the heat was unimaginable. It was so hot that it's painful; the description
she'd heard previously of the hot wind feeling like a hair dryer was
She was becoming culturally insensitive and rude
(this is Shannon?), sometimes shortening her greetings to a few sentences
rather than the expected five minute ritual. And she was regressing
to American directness rather than the appropriate Senegalese indirect
communication. When someone asks for money or her clothing or some
other possession (which is not rude in Senegal), she just says no (VERY
rude in Senegal) rather than answering that she will give it to them
One piece of rather twisted good news was that
Shannon's friend Tunisha (a PCV living in a nearby village) had a
Senegalese friend visiting from up north. As the woman shadowed
Tunisha for almost two weeks she was appalled to observe what the toubabs
have to put up with. Shannon was glad to see her plight appreciated!
Shannon called on Mother's Day (5-14-00) and was only
able to talk a couple of minutes because there was a line behind her
waiting for the phone. She was calling from Sinthiou-Bamambe, as
usual, where she goes to fetch her mail, check in at the Health Post, and
use the telecenter to call us. But it was Sunday, so the only
reason for her being there was to call her mom, and I was humbled that she
went through all that just for me.
Her news that day was that her 7-year-old sister
had just been promised in marriage, though she won't marry until she
menstruates. Shannon was clearly shaken by this.
During most conversations we usually ask
questions to find out how things are going, but during this phase
of Shannon's experience she was clearly emotionally fragile. We
didn't want to add to her
stress by asking the wrong question, so we just let her tell what she
Is this a sufficiently gruesome picture?
The next call was on Shannon's 24th birthday
(5-19-00) from a telecenter near Derek's house, a two hour bus ride from
Seno Palel. Cira had organized a party, and all four of the PCVs
in the area were there: Derek, Cira, Tunisha, and Shannon.
Since Derek is an urban volunteer he has electricity, running water, and a
refrigerator. The menu for the birthday feast was egg salad, pasta
salad, cookies and Rice Krispy bars. Shannon had made the bars
herself, and although they were a little weird because of the fruity
marshmallows, Cira was glad to have something to put the candles
Her good news was that she had cut herself badly
the week before and it didn't get infected; she is essentially healthy
except for rashes and fungi.
She sounded very happy that day.
A week or so later she called and again sounded
good. She started out by saying, "You always want to hear
stories. Here's a good one." She then proceeded to tell
about the spider in her hut.
One night she heard something crawling around the
hut, so she turned on the flashlight and there was the biggest spider she
had ever seen. Far bigger than the tarantula in her room in
Mexico. Bigger than her fist. When she told the Senegalese
about it the next day they told her it was harmless. When she told
some PC people about it they said it was NOT harmless. It is called
a Scorpion Horse Spider because it carries scorpions on its back. Later when she asked
some different villagers about it they agreed that it was very bad.
The scorpions' sting is very painful and has been known to kill small
children. The next night she again heard movement in the hut and
shined the flashlight in the direction of the sound. There was
another Scorpion Horse Spider -- but a much smaller one this time.
Her mood was upbeat that day, and she was rather
gleeful at being able to shock us with such a "good
story." Things may be picking up.
Her Pulaar is getting better, and she is glad that her work is
beginning. The villagers have requested that she provide them with
some malaria prevention information before the rainy season begins, so she
will be researching some visual aids to bring to the village.
She is looking forward to the beginning of the
rainy season (end of June) because it will bring a break to the intense
heat. The wind has already died down, though there are still
gusts to 20 mph which is most difficult because the air is full of
sand, so it is difficult to see or breathe.
Another baby in the compound has been named Hawa, so
now there are four Hawa Daffs: this new baby, her first namesake (Fati
Mata's baby), the 13-year-old Hawa, and Shannon. Senegalese babies' names and
gender are not announced until they are a week old, and Shannon gave this
baby a dress for her baptism and naming ceremony. Another typical
baby gift is an old panja (like a sarong) which
may be used for a baby blanket or sling or diaper.
Not too long ago she walked home from
Sinthiou-Bamambe rather than waiting for the bus because the children
harass her so much. When she got back to the village her family
reprimanded her for walking home alone. They said that people will
see her white skin and think she is rich and rob her. Her
sister-in-law and good friend Fati Mata said, "You must be careful --
this isn't America!"